Travel advice for PALS going west

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blitzc

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Steve and other friends of the west:

Our family has decided to travel to Yellowstone stopping at Mount Rushmore on the way. We wanted to have a family trip to celebrate our son's college graduation. Flying is out of the picture since we need the PWC, so we will drive the handicapped van. So I need the experts and their advice:

Where to stay?
Places to visit?
What else do we need to know?
Trip is scheduled week of May 10th.
 
I’m so thrilled you are planning such an exciting trip, Cathy! Your son will carry it with him forever.

We have visited Yellowstone several times, but I will defer to Steve as the resident expert on that awesome place. I do strongly suggest that you take the 62-mile Beartooth Scenic Highway that runs from the north side of Yellowstone into Red Lodge, MT. Red Lodge is a nice little town with a couple of historic inns that you might want to consider for lodging.

From where you are driving, it looks like you’ll likely be coming in from I-90, and if so I also suggest you make time to veer north near Sundance WY and visit Devils Tower NM. Really amazing geological formation. If you go that route, you’ll likely branch off and go through Cody, WY, which has the massive “Buffalo Bill Center of the West,” five museums in one. I know it’s touristy, but the museum(s) are really well done.

Now to the Black Hills, one of our favorite summer destinations when my wife and I would spend a couple months out west in our motorhome. MOST IMPORTANT NOTE: If at all possible, avoid the Black Hills during the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally, preferably avoiding it for a week before and a week after. This year the rally itself runs from 8/6 - 8/15, so if you can take your trip in late June through July that would be ideal. I have nothing against motorcycles, but lodging is really scarce and the constant growl of the engines is overwhelming.

A major part of our trip each summer was to get to altitude and enjoy the cool, dry air as an escape from the Florida heat. When we first headed to the Black Hills I was concerned that at about 6,000 feet, it would be too warm, but that is not true. Days are typically in the upper 70’s and nights in low 50’s. Yellowstone weather is much more unpredictable, but I’ll leave that to Steve.

I can’t offer thoughts on Black Hills lodging since we had our RV, but you should probably consider a home base in Rapid City or Spearfish since they offer more choices. As you might imagine, many of the small towns, especially Deadwood, Hill City, Keystone, and Custer are touristy, especially Deadwood. We were never fans of Deadwood because of all the stale smelling casinos, but it might be worth a half day visit.

The real jewel for us was Custer State Park (one of the largest state parks in the country) towards the south part of the Black Hills. That would be a must-see. Take the wildlife loop road (about a 45 minute loop) and see herds of Bison, antelopes, bighorn sheep, prairie dogs, etc. Don’t be surprised if you get in a “Buffalo Jam,” where a herd slowly crosses the road and blocks traffic.

When in the park, take the “Eye of the Needle” road up to Sylvan Lake. You won’t be disappointed. In the main part of the park is the historic Game Lodge, which Calvin Coolidge used as the summer White House in the late 20’s. There is a lovely paved trail that runs in front of the Game Lodge and along a scenic creek, so you could enjoy the surroundings close up. You might want to see what sort of ADA accommodations it has, because it would really be a cool place to stay for a couple of days.

At the north end of the Black Hills region is the town of Spearfish, which is quite nice, and I suggest you take Spearfish Canyon Road as a wonderful scenic drive from there down through a scenic canyon.

Those are a few suggestions for now, Cathy. I’m sure I’ll think of more. I’m very happy for you and your family. Best, Kevin
 
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We love the area. So much so see. The last time we visited was in 2017 during Sturgis. What a great time.

I am guessing that you will be coming into the Black Hills on I90 so I would recommend the following: Chamberlin to see the Dignity Statue, the Minuteman Historical Museum with presentations about the Cold War, Wall Drug of 'Where the Heck is Wall Drug' fame though if it really crowded it could be a challenge for you PWC and Badlands National Park. If you are pressed for time, Badlands is the only must-see on the list.

The last time we went we stayed at a hotel in Hill City because it was centrally located. I would add two places to Kevin's list: the Sugar Shack restaurant on Hyw 385 south of Deadwood, which has absolutely the best hamburgers and the Mammoth Site in Hot Springs if you are interested in old bones.

And, yes the buffalo will get close in Custer State Park. This picture was after we spent close to an hour waiting for the herd to clear the road.

IMG_0807.JPG
 
Yes, the Sugar Shack does have great burgers! There is also a Hispanic lady in Custer that has a roadside burrito truck in the summer that serves above average Mexican food if you are looking for something quick and easy. And the mammoth site is really neat as well. So many interesting things to do, just a matter of how much your family can reasonably do without exhausting you and everyone else.

Sometimes it’s best to agree on the top 3-5 places and go from there. And Dave is right about Hill City in that it is very centrally located between Custer and Spearfish. I guess the only thing we see a little different is being there during the rally. It’s a site to see, but we wanted a little more peace and quiet. But I was never a rider, so I could be a bit biased.

If we had to pick our favorite three “must do” adventures (not including Mt. Rushmore) from the Black Hills going to Yellowstone, it would be Custer State Park, Devils Tower, and the Beartooth Highway. Attached is a picture of the Needles Eye Tunnel near Sylvan lake, and then a picture of a healthy me with our two babies (only one now, sadly) at Sylvan Lake. Really gorgeous.

P.S. please tell me you won’t buy a large rusted “antique” wagon wheel from one of the many antique places through the Hills and cart it back home. We have two in our yard from our trips, and they were a pain the ass.
 

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I took my PALS to Yellowstone for his first time a year and a half ago. My PALS was still able to walk short distances with a walker then. It was our last trip together, before we had the PWC (which would have been very helpful as I pushed him with the push chair on all of the trails).

Don't know if you are planning to stay in any of the national park lodges, but we found a lot of variation in what's considered an ADA room. Yellowstone lodges were quite good in general, with roll-in showers and shower benches. Grand Teton not so much (don't know how I was supposed to get my PALS in and out of a standard bathtub). Hopefully Yellowstone roads will be open for you as May can sometimes be a little early.

There are a lot of trails throughout the park that can accommodate a PWC. Some of the trailside toilets were challenging for us, though.

We had a wonderful trip together. I'm so glad we did it, we are pretty much homebound now. Go and enjoy yourselves. What a great graduation trip. I hope you will share some photos!

V
 
Sorry Cathy. I missed the part about your trip starting on May 10th. Ignore the Sturgis stuff.

With your trip set for early May, you may still be able to schedule lodging within Yellowstone and at the Game Lodge at Custer State Park, should you choose. Scheduling from June-August must usually be done many months in advance, since kids are out of school and international tourists flock there during those months. I expect this year to be even more challenging, since so many folks want to hit the road as COVID hopefully gets under control.

Since we traveled July-August, we would start our campground bookings a minimum of six-eight months in advance, and even then some of our preferred places were fully reserved.

So the fact you’ll get a head start on the huge crowds is really good news, but it does change the weather dynamic a bit. Mid-May can be really unpredictable in both places, but even more so at Yellowstone. Pack for basically every possibility. K
 
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Cathy, that sounds like a great trip!

It has been a long time since I was in the Black Hills of South Dakota. I lived in Spearfish and worked out of Deadwood in the summer of 1978 between my junior and senior years of college (majoring in forestry). We spent every weekend climbing. The needles of South Dakota are amazing and I really encourage you to drive the needles highway. It has some tunnels that are "interesting" It is fun to watch a tour bus make it through them.

One of the highlights of that summer was climbing Devil's Tower. It is a pretty amazing geological formation and I think it is really worth a slight detour to check it out.

Much of the Black Hills is very touristy (as Kevin knows from his wagon wheel experience)!

Overall, I found Spearfish boring, Mt Rushmore interesting for an hour, and the needles to be fascinating beyond belief!

Things have certainly changed over the last 40 years. I was there before Deadwood had legal gambling. From what I have read, it is a very different town now and one that I would go out of my way to avoid (gambling and the circus that surrounds it is just not my thing).

The whole area has amazing natural beauty. You really can't go wrong.

As for Yellowstone. May will be early and it is likely the Beartooth highway will not be open in time for your trip. You might be able to enter the park through Cody WY, but even that takes you over Sylvan Pass, which is closed early in the season (May and June are "early"). Your safest, but least scenic bet, is to stay on I 90 all the way to Livingston and then turn south to enter through the north entrance at Mammoth. Note that Mammoth is much lower in elevation, so it is open year round.

The main road in the park is organized as a figure 8. Unfortunately, one of the key legs of that will be closed for all of 2021 (for construction). That is the route from Tower to Canyon over Dunraven Pass. That is too bad, as it really makes it take a lot longer to get around the park.

To me, there are 3 kinds of activities worth pursuing in Yellowstone. First and foremost are the thermal features. For this, I recommend the old faithful area. There are miles of boardwalks and hundreds of thermal features (the largest collection in the world, by far). It is pretty accessible by wheelchair, but is far from ADA compliant. With a capable wheelchair and a bit of patience, you can go many, many places. Don't just do Old Faithful. Do the boardwalks behind Old Faithful all the way out to Morning Glory hot spring (technically a geyser). Do it at different times of the day. If you see folks with walkie talkie radios, they are probably more serious geyser gazers. Ask them if they have suggestions for geysers that are close to erupting. It is worth the wait to watch Grand geyser erupt. You can find predictions at www.geysertimes.org. Be aware that cell phone coverage is not sufficient to be able to use that website while you are in the park. They have an app that you can download that will cache the predictions. It runs on android and IOS devices. Cell phone coverage is sufficient to periodically update the cache of predictions.

The other geyser basis are also worth visiting, especially Black Sands, Biscuit Basin, Midway, and Norris. West Thumb is also worth a visit, but is more about natural beauty than thermal activity.

The second main activity is wildlife. Going in May is wonderful for wildlife. I highly recommend the Lamar Valley and they Hayden Valley for wildlife viewing. Bring binoculars. If you have it, bring a spotting scope and tripod. I can sit for hours at the Grizzly overlook in the Hayden valley looking through the spotting scope. If you don't have a spotting scope, others are usually willing to let you look through theirs, though they may be set up in a place a wheelchair cannot reach.

The best places for wolves are the Lamar Valley and the Grizzly overlook area of the Hayden valley. I have had good look watching bears in the Lamar Valley, Hayden Valley, and especially along the stretch between Fishing Bridge and Sylvan Pass. Black bears can be common around Tower, but I don't know if the road will be open to it (due to construction).

The third reason I like to go to Yellowstone is the natural beauty of the area. We spend hours and hours just driving around looking at the beautiful sights and occasionally stumble across some wildlife.

I also recommend a trip down to the Tetons. They are beautiful and there is a wonderful bike path that is GREAT for a wheelchair. It is one of my favorite places to take a long ride.

You have probably already discovered that getting lodging inside the park requires booking well in advances (9 months to a year). Getting a May reservation in the Old Faithful area will be problematic. The Old Faithful Inn does not even open until June 4 this year. There are 2 other lodges in the Old Faithful area, so check them for availability. Note that there are no true ADA accessible rooms, but I have made one of the more expensive rooms at the Old Faithful Inn work for me. There is a communal ADA shower on the first floor of the Old Faithful Inn that I can use (very large, with a roll in shower).

I have taken many pictures of Yellowstone over the years. Those are posted on a website at swalkeratvail dot zenfolio dot com. Most of the pictures have the location. Reviewing those will give you an idea of where wildlife hangs out in the park.

There is too much in Yellowstone to see and do in a single trip. I recommend picking a few things and doing them well. If I had to choose, I would plan on doing the Old Faithful area well. It is unique in the world and is an absolutely amazing place. I would also plan a day driving the lower loop (Old Faithful, Norris, Canyon, Hayden Valley, Fishing Bridge, and West Thumb. I would plan another day in the Lamar Valley. Note that the drives are long (longer with Dunraven Pass being closed). I would also spend a day in the Tetons. Wildlife is typically out at dawn and dusk, though bears will be out whenever they feel like it!

Ask as many questions as you like. I will be glad to share whatever information I have.

Steve
 
Great point about the Beartooth highway not being open, Steve. I have never been there that early in the season. A pity...it really is spectacular. But then so much is spectacular in that area. And the Tetons are a great suggestion, if Cathy has time. On my list of top five NP’s.
 
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